Naples means business when it comes to nativity scenes. The epicenter of Christmas activity is hands down Via San Gregorio Armeno — a tiny vicoletto (narrow Neapolitan street) chock-full of artisans and tiny merchant shops. The vendors on Via San Gregorio Armeno sell beautiful handmade materials for families to make their own nativity scenes, known as presepe, or presepi when plural.
While nativity scenes are a treasured tradition in all of Italy, the type of nativity scene in Naples known as a presepe Napolitano is well-known throughout the country for its intricacy and over-the-top-ness (did we just invent a word?). This article will take you through the history of the Neapolitan nativity scene and tell you where to find them in winter—and year-round—in the city.
The Neapolitan presepe: A brief history
The name presepe comes from the Italian word for crib or manger. A Neapolitan presepe is different from a traditional nativity scene for its use of everyday characters: it’s a representation of common life in the 1700’s, with a baby Jesus nestled in the center of a miniature town.
The tradition of the Neapolitan presepe really took off in the 1700’s. The origins of nativity scenes are much earlier, however, with Saint Francis of Assisi documented as the first person to organize a live reenactment of the birth of Christ. In the Naples area, the first documented instance of a Nativity scene was in Amalfi in 1324, where figurines were set up in a private chapel.
The practice started gaining popularity in the 1600’s, when artisans used terracotta and paper-maché techniques to sculpt both life size and small figures. In the 1700’s the tradition took on the drama of the Baroque period as noble families constructed more and more complex presepi, creating mini cityscapes as they sought to outdo one another. Today, presepi are ubiquitous in Naples during the winter months. Read on to discover where to see them yourself!
Hidden symbolism and common figures in a nativity scene
Presepi are constructed everywhere in Naples during the winter months in both the private and public sphere. Most families, in fact, have their own presepe at home. Public presepi in churches tend to be much larger and more elaborate, but all presepi share some aspects in common.
Although it can look random, the Neapolitan presepe bursts with symbolism. You’ll see baby Jesus and Virgin Mary, of course, but keep an eye out for the various merchants and townspeople that hold their own symbolism. There are the hunters and fishermen that symbolize life and death, for example. There is also one type of merchant for each month—the butcher represents January, the baker represents June, and so on.
When you visit Via San Gregorio Armeno, don’t be afraid to speak with the shopkeepers about their figurines and the wealth of meanings they carry. Naples is full of superstitions and symbolism, and the presepi are no different!
Insider’s Tip: When you visit Via San Gregorio Armeno, don’t be afraid to speak with the shopkeepers about their figurines and the wealth of meanings they carry. Naples is full of superstitions and symbolism, and the presepi are no different!
The figurines are sometimes known as pastori, or shepherds. But as you’ll see, the Neapolitan presepe goes way beyond mere shepherds to create a living city scene that blends the old with the new. Nowadays, Neapolitans make statuettes of popular figures like football players, singers, and world leaders. There are even electrical pieces that move, like an animated pizza maker taking a pizza out of the oven or someone bending to hang laundry.
Where to see presepi in Naples during Christmastime
To see the magic of presepi yourself, head to the artisan center of Via San Gregorio Armeno. Tourists and locals alike pack the tiny street during the winter months to check out the presepe materials available in the charming shops. Make sure to explore the surrounding vicoletti (small streets) as well—that whole area is full of artisans.
It’s hard to put together a list of presepi to see in Naples because they are almost literally everywhere during the Christmas season. Most pizzerias, trattorias, and restaurants will have their own presepe, often quite elaborate. And of course, every church will have its own nativity scene. Our advice is to go out as much as possible and keep your eyes open!
Where to see presepi in Naples year-round
There are some notable presepi in the city that can be viewed year round. One of the most well-known is housed in the hilltop museum of San Martino (Largo S. Martino, 5) which can be reached by funicular or Metro Linea 1. The museum houses the presepe Cucinello, a genuine presepe from the 1700’s.
Another presepe of epic proportions can be found in the cloisters of Santa Chiara (Via Santa Chiara, 49/C) in the historical center. The cloisters themselves are a beautiful refuge from the bustling streets of the historical center and the massive 18th century presepe is the cherry on top
Insider’s Tip: Visitors year-round can get a taste of the Christmas spirit right in the Central Station of Naples. If you’re taking trains into or out of Naples, keep an eye out for the large presepe in a glass case near the front entrance. It’s hard to miss!
Practical tips for a winter presepe tour in Naples
So you’ve decided to visit Naples in winter? There are some practical tips to keep in mind.
- It rains a lot, so make sure you pack rain gear or an umbrella.
- To see presepe and get the Christmas vibe of Naples in general, the best advice is to wander. Look out for luminarie in almost every piazza: luminarie are massive twinkling light sculptures of objects like christmas trees and Santa’s sleigh.
- If you want to get out of the center of the city, there are other ways to enjoy the Christmas spirit of the city. The neighborhood of Vomero up the hill has various Christmas markets on Via Scarlatti and Via Luca Giordano. Slightly outside the city center, the historical train museum of Pietrarsa has an awesome winter market perfect for families.
- If you want a starting point for your Christmas tour, seeing the artisans in Via San Gregorio Armeno is a great way to take in the presepe culture. Be warned that it really does get packed in December, though! For a less chaotic experience, check it out in November or January, when the Christmas fever is not at its peak. During the other seasons, it is still possible to visit the street, but there might just be fewer artisans open. It’s still absolutely worth checking out.
The tradition of presepi in Naples is a Christmas tradition that carries on year round in the city on Via San Gregorio Armeno. Visiting the city during the wintertime gives you the chance to experience the magic firsthand. Buon viaggio!
