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Why San Sebastián Gets a Big YES from Travelers Everywhere

If you’re planning your holiday itinerary, and you’re asking yourself: Is San Sebastián worth visiting? We’ve got you covered, here’s everything you need to know about the Basque city before arriving in San Sebastián.

First things first: San Sebastián is a handsome city in the Basque Country. While many tourists drift between the usual Spanish cities—Madrid, Barcelona, Sevilla, Granada—San Sebastian sits there in northeastern Spain, quietly waiting to be explored. 

This town of 200,000 people is dazzling on the eyes: the conch-shaped bay—called La Concha in the local parlance—with its verdant Santa Clara Island perched in the middle, is the most iconic sight in the city.

The 19th-century hotels that line the bay are reflective of the fact that San Sebastián was once a summer vacation spot for European elites, particularly from France. Consider it the Spanish sibling city to Biarritz across the border in the French Basque Country. 

If you’re not yet convinced to add San Sebastián to your travel itinerary in Spain, here are 15 things to help change your mind. 

Is San Sebastián worth visiting? Summer, yes
San Sebastián’s city beach is small, and easily crowded, but beautiful. Photo credit: Joost van Os

What to do in San Sebastián

San Sebastián doesn’t have a lot of sites to check off a list. And that’s perfectly okay. It’s a beach town, so its natural wonders—the seashore and the mountains surrounding it—are part of the appeal.

Besides, San Sebastián is more about the ambience and the vibe for you to soak up. And if you’re looking for a great overview of San Sebastian, consider taking a one-day small-group tour of the city.

People sitting outside in San Sebastián
San Sebastián is a place to sit down, relax and enjoy the day. Photo credit: The waving cat

La Concha Beach

The main draw for sun worshippers, La Concha is one of the most iconic beaches in Spain. Plonk down on the sand in between dips in the water, or just take a stroll along the shell-shaped promenade.

The waves are not particularly big or rough here, making La Concha ideal for families. Keep in mind that the tides may affect the amount of space available, so keep an eye on what locals do.

Is San Sebastián worth visiting? La Concha Beach is an option
La Concha beach is definitely worth visiting if you’re traveling to San Sebastián. Photo credit: Patrick C

Monte Igueldo

That leafy mountain on the western side of La Concha is Monte Igueldo and, if you’re a fan of A) funicular trains B) great views, and C) roller coasters, you’re going to want to point yourself in its direction.

Ascend the mountain on a funicular and take some time to gawk at the stunning panoramic view of San Sebastián. And then you can even go on a roller coaster and a few other amusement park rides that operate at the top of the mountain. 

This tiny and old amusement park really has some great views of La Concha, and you can see it from the beach.

Igueldo has an old amusement park in San Sebastián
Igueldo seen from La Concha, houses and on top of it, a hotel and an amusement park. Photo credit: Joan Brebo

Museo de San Telmo

If you want a crash course in Basque history and culture, start at the Museo de San Telmo.

Housed in a 16th-century palace on the edge of the Parte Vieja (or Old Town), the museum exhibits archeological remains, paintings, sculptures, photographs, and historical artifacts related to the history of the Basque Country.

The San Telmo Museum in San Sebastián
The San Telmo Museum has both permanent and temporary exhibitions. Photo credit: Joan Brebo

Palacio de Miramar

San Sebastián has long been the favorite summer vacation spot for the Spanish royal family. Even Franco, the longstanding 20th-century Spanish dictator, could not resist the summertime charms of this city. When the Spanish royals were in town, they’d stay at Miramar Palace.

Located near the Concha, close to the west side, the palace is a fun place to explore for a few hours. Visitors can explore three floors of the palace as well as the leafy park-like grounds. 

Palacio de Miramar, San Sebastián
The Miramar Palace has great views and it’s a popular venue for events. Photo credit: Andres Alvarado

Tabakalera

Housed in a former tobacco factory (hence the name) near the railway station, Tabakalera is an excellent art and culture center with temporary exhibitions of contemporary art. 

It also hosts the offices of the San Sebastián International Film Festival, and a few other spaces that you can visit to learn more about contemporary art in the Basque Country.

Tabakalera is a cultural center
Tabakalera is currently a cultural center with contemporary exhibitions and events. Photo credit: Tabakalera

Where to drink in San Sebastián

San Sebastián may be all about the amazing food at highly acclaimed restaurants and pintxos bars, but it’s also a good place to drink. If you’re not sure what the locals are drinking, here’s what to drink in San Sebastián. Is San Sebastián worth visiting? If you enjoy having a drink, mingling with locals and having a slow day for yourself, it definitely is.

Toast with txakoli
Discover the flavors of San Sebastián like locals do. Photo credit: Scott Warman

Le Bukowski

If you fancy a potent cocktail, point yourself to Le Bukowski.

Located in the Egia neighborhood, this Charles Bukowski-themed spot is a music venue and performing arts center as well as a place to knock back a few cocktails. 

Le Bukowski in San Sebastián
Enjoy live music and drinks at Le Bukowski. Photo credit: Urko Dorronsoro

Bar Txurrut

Located on the Plaza de la Constitución, Bar Txurrut is one of the best places in the Old Town to grab an outside table and nurse a gin and tonic, a spritz, or a glass of wine while doing some major league people watching.

If it’s raining or cold, the diminutive wood-clad interior of the bar is also atmospheric.  

Plaza de la Constitución, San Sebastián
Sit down, lay back, and enjoy a Gin & Tonic at this charming square. Photo credit: Vincent Soleil

Museo del Whisky

Set on the main drag just south of Old Town, Museo del Whisky is not a museum nor a whisky-only bar. It does, though, have one of the largest collections of whisky in Spain.

Come here to listen to the live piano, sip on a cocktail, and take in the bottle-lined walls and fun ambience. 

Museo del Whisky, Spain
Museo del Whisky is not a museum, but it does have one of the largest selections of whisky in Spain. Photo credit: John Cafazza

Where to eat in San Sebastián

San Sebastián is one of the best cities in Europe for eating. Don’t believe it? It has more Michelin stars per capita than anywhere else in Europe, and second only to Kyoto on the planet.

That avant-garde dining at the city’s most esteemed restaurants has trickled down to its tapas bars (or, as they’re called here, pintxos bars). Eating here, whether you go the haute route or the more affordable pintxos route, is just exquisite.

And if you want a little more guidance—always a good thing when traveling—consider joining a guided pintxos and wine tour of San Sebastián. Is San Sebastián worth visiting just for the food itself? Yes, of course it is!

Is San Sebastián worth visiting? Food says yes
From pintxos to the finest dishes, you’ll find joy when eating. Photo credit: Brian Colson

Bar Sport

Despite the name, you won’t find much sports at Bar Sport—unless you consider eating flavor-popping pintxos a sport. If so, then step onto the field and you better come hungry.

Bar Sport is a no-frills spot in Parte Vieja on the raucous street Fermin Calbeton. As with most pintxos bars in San Sebastián, the bar is lined with already prepared “cold” bites such as morcilla (blood sausage) and various anchovy pintxos.

They’re all excellent but don’t ignore the warm made-to-order ones. The grilled foie gras is divine. So is the “mini hamburguesa,” made with ground txuletón or ribeye steak.

As with nearly all bars, order a glass of txakoli, the local Basque slightly-effervescent white wine, to go with your pintxo

Fermin Calbetón street
In some of these small streets you’ll find plenty of bars to discover amazing tastes. Photo credit: Hans Nerstu

Casa Urola

Just down the street from Bar Sport is another must-visit eating institution: Casa Urola. Try to nab a reservation to get a table upstairs for the sit-down portion of the restaurant.

If not, though, the ground-floor, front-room pintxos bar is certain to blow your taste buds away with an excellent hunk of perfectly grilled ribeye, sauteed foie gras wading in a shallow pool of white beans and broth, and grilled octopus. It’s impossible to go wrong here. 

Grilled octopus in San Sebastián
You can’t go wrong with anything you ask, so listen to your gut. Photo redit: Andrea Huls Pareja

Ganbara

In the heart of Old Town, Ganbara is one of the most popular pintxos bars in town. When it opens at 7 p.m., there’s always a line of about 20 people or so. Two hours later, there’s still a line.

People love Ganbara. And you will too. This was a favorite place of Anthony Bourdain and Michelin three-star chef Juan Mari Arzak still comes here regularly. 

Pintxos at San Sebastián
You’ll want to eat everything everywhere. It is normal. Photo credit: Gordito1869

Gandarias

In the Parte Vieja, Gandarias is a favorite among locals and regular visitors to San Sebastián. Everything on the bar or that can be ordered is excellent at Ganbara but there’s one thing they do here almost better than anyone else in town: ribeye steak.

The medium-rare hunk of steak comes on a slice of bread and it’s revelatory.

Ribeye steak in San Sebastián
Keep in mind they won’t ask you how you want your meat. Bloody is the only option. Photo credit: JJ Hal

Arzak

If you’re up for a splurge, this Michelin three-star spot is one of the most famous and most celebrated restaurants in Spain, if not all of Europe.

Welcome to Arzak, where Juan Mari Arzak and his daughter Elena Arzak create avant-garde masterpieces.

Juan Mari is responsible for making San Sebastián one of the greatest dining destinations in Europe. Book way in advance for what will be one of the most memorable meals of your life. 

Arzak restaurant in San Sebastián
Known as one of the best restaurants in the world, Arzak reinvented Basque gastronomy. Photo credit: Pablo Monteagudo

Rita

Located in the Gros neighborhood, across the river from the Old Town, Rita is an exceptional off-the-radar restaurant. You won’t find it in any guidebooks nor blog posts.

It will just be you and the in-the-know locals feasting on high-quality Basque fare here. Think: foie gras and grilled asparagus, ox carpaccio that bursts with flavor, and grilled Cantabrian anchovies. 

Cantabrian anchovies in the Basque Country
A mixture of strong flavors and delicious products, Cantabrian anchovies in the Basque Country. Photo credit: Juantiagues

Muka

If you can’t make it to Mugaritz, chef Andoni Luis Aduriz Michelin two-starred temple to Basque fine dining, a great alternative is Muka.

Located on the edge of the Kursaal, the city’s main conference center, and just across the river from the Old Town, Muka is the more casual version of Mugaritz.

There’s an excellent a la carte menu, as well as an affordable multi-course tasting menu. 

Is San Sebastián worth visiting? For Michelin star restaurants, yes. Muka.
Casual, minimal and delicious, that’s restaurant Muka. Photo credit: Carlos Martín Gaebler

So, is San Sebastián worth visiting? After reading these 15 reasons why, we’re pretty sure your answer is a definitive yes! Sí! Bai!

You’ll eat better here than anywhere else in Spain and you’ll get some quality beach time to rest up between amazing meals. If, after your visit, you want to learn to cook like the pros, you may want to check the Authentic Basque cooking class in San Sebastián, as a great alternative to discover more of something that is so profoundly important for the Basque people, and all of us: food.

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About the author

David Farley is a West Village-based food and travel writer whose work appears regularly in the New York Times, National Geographic, BBC, and Food & Wine, among other publications. He’s the author of three books, including “An Irreverent Curiosity: In Search of the Church’s Strangest Relic in Italy’s Oddest Town,” which was made into a documentary by the National Geographic Channel. You can find Farley’s online homes at https://www.tripout.online/ and https://dfarley.com/index.html

More by David Farley

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