Trastevere in Rome is arguably the city’s most achingly charming neighborhood! A place to wander colourful curved streets that make up a labyrinth of medieval lanes. The streets are flanked by atmospheric bars, cafes, and restaurants. It’s not all just culinary mirth and merriment in Rome’s Trastevere, though. There are some super-star historic sites to see here too. One of the city’s oldest churches, for example. The best and most underrated Bernini sculpture. An early-Renaissance architectural masterpiece. Need we say more?
We’ll be taking you on a guided tour through Trastevere and its top sites. But first, let´s look at a brief history of this gorgeous Roman neighborhood.
Discovering Trastevere in Rome
A Brief History
Trastevere got its start about 2,700 years ago when Etruscans settled here. Then during the Roman Republic the area was a mainstay for immigrants, mostly Syrians and Jews. It wasn’t until the time of Emperor Augustus, that Trastevere was finally and officially brought into the fold of the city of Rome.
Due to being on the other side of the Tiber river, and it’s relative isolation, the neighborhood evolved differently to others. This, plus the ethnic diversity through the Middle Ages, meant that the people of Trastevere, the Trasteverini, had their own identity. Not unlike, say, the way the residents of pre-hipster Brooklyn felt.
In the second half of the 20th century, the neighborhood attracted a legion of artists. Today, it’s a hotbed of international student life. Here you will find the campuses of John Cabot University, the American Academy in Rome, Thomas More College of Liberal Arts, Pratt Institute School of Architecture, and The American University in Rome.
A Stroll Through Trastevere’s Historical Sights
Although many go to Trastevere just to get lost in the ambient, narrow, winding streets, here are some historical sights you don’t want to miss.
Basilica of Santa Cecilia
Cecilia was an aristocratic girl who went Christian before it was cool with Roman authorities. In the year 230, an executioner gave three sword blows to her neck in a failed attempt to behead her. She died three days later. This quaint church commemorates Saint Cecilia, the patron saint of music. Keep an eye out for Stefano Maderno’s sculpture of Cecilia, in the form of how she looked when her tomb was unearthed in the late 16th century.
Basilica of Santa Maria
The first church in Rome dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Santa Maria, in Trastevere, dates back to the year 340, making it one of the oldest churches in Rome. That said, nowadays a lot of what you can see of the building is from the 12th century and on. The interior is majestic. The first thing you might notice are the 22 tall granite ionic and Corinthian columns that separate the nave from the aisles. The material was poached from the Baths of Caracalla. The decorative ceiling shows a dramatic depiction of the Assumption of Mary.
For relics fans, the church is the home of the Holy Sponge, which was reportedly used to offer Christ some hydration during the Crucifixion. However, across town, the Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore, also claims to be home to the true Holy Sponge.
Church of San Francesco a Ripa
There’s one main reason to visit the Church of San Francesco a Ripa: a stunning and dramatic sculpture by Bernini. “Baeta Ludovica Albertoni” looks like she’s in such a state of rapture it could make some parishioners blush.
Gianicolo Hill
Often called the eighth hill of Rome, iconic umbrella pine trees cover the verdant Gianicolo Hill. This hilltop park is a great way to flee from the hustle and bustle of the Italian capital. Make a point to stop by the grand Fontana dell’Acqua Paola. This 17th-century fountain was created to celebrate the reopening of a Roman-era aqueduct.
Isola Tiberina
Did you know that this island in the middle of the Tiber River was once entirely clad in marble. This is because the Romans recognized Isola Tiberina as the shape of a ship. Hoping to evoke the boat of Aesculapius, the god of Healing, they clad the ground of the island with marble and then added giant obelisks to look like masts of a ship.
The reference to healing is still in function today, as Isola Tiberina is home to a small hospital as well as a pharmacy. You can access the island by strolling across the Ponte Fabricio, Rome’s oldest still-functioning bridge, built in 62 B.C.E.
The Tempietto
On the way up (or way down) Gianicolo, be sure to get a peek at the Tempietto, an early-Renaissance architectural wonder. The Tempietto is located within San Pietro in Montorio. This church, on the eastern slope of Gianicolo, is believed to stand on the spot where Saint Peter was crucified. It was designed by Donato Bramante in the 15th century, and became a highly influential piece of architecture. The Tempietto was an early indication that the architecture and art of antiquity was worth taking a new look at, rejecting the world of Gothic aesthetics.
Villa Farnesina
Built at the beginning of the 16th century, a primetime for Renaissance art. The Villa Farnesina is a physical testament to the financial extravagance of this period in Italian history. The man behind the structure is Agostino Chigi, a wealthy banker from Sienna. The villa makes for an intriguing stroll. But the main reason people visit is because of the frescos in the loggia painted by Raphael.
Chigi was famous for entertaining princes, popes, and potentates at this riverside villa, throwing decadent dinner parties. Then, at the end, he’d order the servants to dramatically toss all the expensive cutlery and dinnerware into the Tiber River. All the guests could do was watch and witness, mouths agape. What guests didn’t know is that nets under the water would catch the objects, allowing Chigi to repeat this show of faux nonchalance again and again.
FAQs – Visiting Trastevere in Rome
How do you get to Trastevere using public transport?
Trastevere is easy to reach from central Rome. Tram line 8 connects the neighborhood with Piazza Venezia in about 10 to 15 minutes, while several bus routes cross the Tiber from the historic center. If you’re already sightseeing near Campo de’ Fiori or the Jewish Ghetto, it’s also an easy 10 to 15 minute walk across the bridges into Trastevere.
Is parking available if you’re driving to Trastevere?
Parking can be challenging in Trastevere, especially in the evening when the area becomes very lively. Many of the streets are narrow or restricted to local traffic (ZTL zones). If you’re driving, it’s usually easier to park in a paid parking garage or outside the historic center and then walk or take public transport into the neighborhood.
What is the best time of day to explore Trastevere?
Trastevere has a completely different atmosphere depending on the time of day. Morning and early afternoon are ideal for sightseeing and visiting churches while the streets are quieter. In the evening, the neighborhood comes alive with locals and visitors heading to restaurants, wine bars, and lively piazzas.
Is Trastevere expensive for restaurants and nightlife?
Trastevere has options for almost every budget. Casual trattorias/pizzerias typically charge €12 – €18 for a pasta dish and around €5 – €7 for a glass of wine, while a full dinner with multiple courses might cost €30 to €45 per person. Trendier restaurants and cocktail bars can be a bit pricier, especially around the main piazzas, but wandering a few streets away often reveals excellent, more affordable spots.
If you’re intrigued and want to learn more about Trastevere – how could you not? – then sign up for a Trastevere Food Tour where expert guides not only take you on a deep dive into the history of this fascinating neighborhood but also introduce you to its delicious aperitivo culture.
Or if you’d like to learn more about Rome’s most fascinating sites, take a look at some of our best Rome Waking Tours. From touring the Sistine Chapel alone to a fabulous day-trip to the Amalfi Coast, we’ve got you covered.